Birria in Medford

Birria is meat braised long and slow in a chile adobo until it pulls apart without any effort, served in the broth it cooked in. That broth — the consomé — is half the point. It carries everything the chiles and the meat gave up over the hours, and plenty of people rate a birria on the consomé alone.

Eat it as a stew with tortillas, or tear the tortillas in. There is no wrong approach and nobody is watching.

The full birria is a weekend dish, but the quesabirria is on the everyday menu — birria and cheese griddled into a tortilla until the outside crisps. It is the most-ordered thing on the board most days, and it is there Wednesday through Sunday.